Sightseeing is great and all…but have you tried the FOOD?!
I’d be lying if I said that eating my body weight in döner kebap, manti and gözleme wasn’t the main reason I came to Istanbul. I’m kidding…almost. After spending two weeks visiting historical sites and tourist landmarks all around the country, we were VERY excited to take a back seat and spend our last few days lazily wandering the Turkish capital, hopping from one restaurant to the other, eating anything and everything on our way, cradling our expanding stomachs with a fierce determination not to miss ANYTHING. Yes, I suffer from a very severe case of food FOMO.
So we powered through with relentless appetites, and in the process, managed to compile this list of our favourite spots, ranging from traditional breakfast to late night baklava and everything in between. Forget fancy white table cloths and anything remotely Western. This list is about local gems serving authentic Turkish food amidst the hustle and bustle of this incredible city.
ENJOY!
My 54938th simit, filled with nutella, ft. views of the Hagia Sophia.
Traditional Breakfast
A traditional Turkish breakfast (known as ‘kahvalti’) is a must-have meal and experience during your visit. There’s a novelty in having such an epic spread laid out before you, with both sweet and savoury dishes to satisfy ANY mood or appetite.
It usually features a selection of breads, cheeses, cured meats, olives, salad, honey, fresh jams, clotted cream and butter along with a main dish like eggs (menemen or cilbir) with sucuk (Turkish sausage), all washed down with an obligatory cup of black tea (unlimited refills of course). You’ll find yourself saying “eenie meenie minie mo” as you decide what to eat first.
1. yigit sofram gözleme ve kahvaltı
Our absolute favourite spot for kahvalti. I mean…just look at the photo below. So beautiful it brings me a tear of joy.
Yiğit Sofram Gözleme ve Kahvaltı
2. Van Kahvaltı Evi
One of the most popular breakfast spots in Istanbul. Their kahvalti is very generous and very well priced too.
Ah…the look of love.
3. Others
DOĞACIYIZ Gourmet
Çeşme Bazlama Kahvaltı Nişantaşı
Emirgan Sütiş
Aşşk Kahve
Ethemefendi Bazlama Kahvaltı
ALL THE MEAT
Vegetarians look away…because this list is all about the MEAT. I’m talking adana, doner, kofte and every kind of kebap under the Turkish sun. This city is indeed a carnivore’s paradise.
1. Bilice Kebap
The platter of dreams. Freshly grilled chicken and lamb skewers with paper thin bread and ALL the sides you could possibly think of. Come prepared with an appetite because the two of us were rendered immobile after wiping this clean.
2. Zübeyir Ocakbaşı Restaurant
“Life-changing kebab and grilled lamb in Istanbul” said Mark Weins (one of my favourite food bloggers)…and he was right. The lamb chops here are ridiculous. Perfectly seasoned and melt-in-your-mouth tender. One of our all-time favourite restaurants in the city.
3. Şehzade Cağ Kebap
Another Mark Wein’s recommendation from his Youtube guide to food in Istanbul (essential viewing IMO). It did not disappoint. It specialises in one dish, and that is their famous cag kebap. Succulent pieces of thinly sliced lamb cooked over a horizontal wood-fire spit and served with fresh bread and salad. So simple and SO delicious.
4. Nusr-Et
An international institution and a must-visit for all meat lovers. It’s obviously pricier than the local Turkish grills, but the you’re also paying for the upper-class scene. Come with a group ideally so you can share the dishes, because the portions are generous and you WILL get the meat sweats.
Their famous butter tenderloin - slices of beef filet cooked in boiling and bubbling butter. Not for the faint hearted.
5. Sultanahmet Köftecisi
A no-frills establishment with a long standing history (since 1920) serving some of the best traditional ızgara köfte (grilled meatballs). Make sure to try their hearty lentil soup and their famous red chilli sauce, and wash it all down with some refreshing ayran (yoghurt drink). It’s perfect for a quick lunch while exploring all the tourist attractions in the old city.
5. Others
ANTAKYA Restaurant
Tarihi Karadeniz Döner (doner kebab)
Baran Et Mangal (BBQ platters)
Kral Kokoreç Sirkeci (lamb intestines…if you’re game)
Anas Chicken Taksim (shawarma)
Hasanpaşa Konağı (great if you want shisha too)
Hatay Medeniyetler Sofrasi Aksaray (for entertainment value)
Zennup 1844 (out of the main city but great for the food)
Istanbul Kebab Cafe & Restaurant
Buhara Ocakbaşı Restaurant
Seafood
Situated around the Bosphorus, bountiful seafood.
Nestled between the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea and split by the iconic Bosphorus, Istanbul is an epicentre for amazing seafood restaurants
Few street foods are as iconic in Istanbul as a fish sandwich. Always served on a fresh roll, the sandwich is perfect in its simplicity with a fried filet of white fish, usually bluefish or perch, sliced onions and shredded lettuce. The best place to grab one is right off the boats docked in the Golden Horn in Eminönü, just across the street from the Spice Bazaar
Whatever you do, avoid the restaurants under Galata Bridge (they’re a bit of a tourist trap).
A classic - balik ekmek. Fresh fish sandwich.
Others:
Eleos (Beyoglu) - pricier than some of the local joints, but well worth it for the quality of seafood and the gorgeous views
Balıkçı Sabahattin
Fish Home Ahhir Kapi Restaurant
Saltanat Fish & Kebab House
Sultanahmet Ottoman Terrace Fish House
Sur Balık
Sultanahmet Fish House
Adem Baba - local neighbourhood gem
Pide, Gozleme & Lahmacun
The bread lover in me squeals with delight at the sight of these delicious things.
Spinach and feta gozleme, with a side of ayran (obligatory).
DeSSERTS
I’ve eaten a LOT of baklava in my lifetime…but there was something special about the ones I had in Turkey. Not only is the pastry always fresh, flakey and perfectly syrup soaked (without being too sweet), but they are also generous with the nutty fillings, and for anyone obsessed with pistachio nuts (ME), you will be VERY pleased. They put it in everything. Heck, I even found a pistachio flavoured Magnum one day.
For the record, they top this up with a bucket of syrup every few minutes. I mean…
1. HAFIZ MUSTAFA 1864
This is the OG of desert spots. If you don’t go here while in Istanbul, we simply can’t be friends. It’s always buzzing (even with locals), so that’s a good sign. You’ll find every kind of baklava flavour under the sun, Turkish delight, knafeh, cakes, etc…but one thing you MUST try here is the caramel Trileçe (tres leches cake). One bite will send you straight to desert heaven. Also, their baklava ice cream sandwich will make you cry.
Sweet and creamy milk soaked sponge topped with a thick caramel sauce. Drool.
Kunefe ft. ice cream. Forks at the ready…
3. Karaköy Güllüoğlu
A local institution for baklava. Need I say more?
2. Sultan Tatlisi - Fatih
Famous for it’s knafeh and selection of Syrian sweets.
Others:
Cigdem Patisserie - if you must have cake. Don’t expect a
Şirin Fırın | Bakery - pastries
İnci Pastanesi - famous for their profiteroles.
Mado - chain known for its ice cream
Murat Muhallebicisi - chain known for its milky desserts (sütlaç, kazandibi, and white pudding)
J'adore Chocolatier - for, well, chocolate
Baylan (Kadikoy) - famous for their kup griye (essentially tiramisu in a cup)